Tuesday 27 February 2007

Designer tie



The 1920’s was a significant year for the tie. Two major innovations occurred on two different continents which changed the tie forevever. This was the decade that saw it being completely re-engineered and re-styled. Thanks to pioneering Paris fashion designer Jean Patou who invented the designer tie. He made silk ties from women’s clothing material. Targeted towards women purchasers, his expensive ties were highly successful.

Jesse Langsdorf, an American tailor, discovered that by cutting the tie on the bias of the cloth, the tie would be much more resilient and long- wearing. Cut slightly off bias, the tie would pull off-centre and fall crookedly, but if cut at exactly 45 degrees, the aprons of the tie would drape elegantly, straight down from the knot. He also constructed his ties using three different pieces of silk (the blade, the gusset and the under end) sewn together. He patented his idea and sold it to the world.

Today, designer ties abound. Designers create some themselves, while others are made by manufacturers under licensing agreements. Designer ties are also popular with women, who associate them with high fashion.

Noted designers include, Duchamp, Simon Carter, Louis Feraud, Dunhill, Timothy Everest, Richard James, Ian Flaherty, Robert Charles, Kenzo, Ede and Ravenscroft, Michelsons, Cressida Bell, Shane McCoubrey and Neil Bottle. There are many more but this short list highlight those who have championed the designer tie movement through their own unique styles. Some can be found at Patrick McMurray.

No comments: