Thursday 13 December 2007

Polka Dots Tie with a difference


"To be different" Polka dots, you can't go wrong and the variations of, texture, dimension, pattern and colour, add-infinitum, a designers delight. And all the variations are in this tie. It might lack conservatism, but we like to be different.

"The One That Got Away"


"The one that got away" Here trapped in lifeless form with no detail left to guesswork, right down to glistening scales. Measuring 33mm long and 11mm wide, they're in perfect proportion. Made from pure English pewter and double coated with Rhodium to give many years good linkage; taken from Ian Flaherty's Country Enamel animal collection.

Friday 7 December 2007

70's Is Back


The floral styles of the 70's are back. Next in line: floral shirts, jacket linings. Timothy Everest got off the mark early with his Spitalfield Flower tie, an inspiration for us, hence this rendition on satin silk.

Enamel Horse Cufflink!


Ian Flaherty has captured the action of the race track with this still life, its finite detail something to behold. We did have the whole collection but the country Mallard sold out, you've got to be quick.

Thursday 6 December 2007

Crystal blue persuasion


KIS "Keep it simple "Simon says", maybe so, but not without style and this crystal cufflink a classified classic, popular by demand because other brands have a similar rendition in their collection. It's multi faceted, so catches the light at every turn.

Wednesday 5 December 2007

A Chevron From Simon Carter


If by chance you own a black and white Hounds Tooth silk tie and are dammed if you can find a pair of cufflinks that mirror the style and colour. Well Simon Carter designs can do justice to just about anything you want to match, so try these. Appropriately labelled Chevron and made from Mother of Pearl and Onyx, the best that Mother Nature has to offer.

A Michelsons Tie from Kent


Michelsons, makers of fine neckwear since 1937: good honest silk ties, no frills, no extras, no fancy stitching or quirky labels. They have an archive of about 10,000 designs that go back many decades, so variety is never an issue. If you want a conservative every day work tie that will take the hard knocks, then Michelsons ties are the best economical solution. Their best seller is the classic "Hounds Tooth", a style that has seen countless fashion cycles and still a seasonal choice of many well known brands.

Friday 30 November 2007

Subtle Significance: A Geometric Floral Tie


A subtle mauve heart first catches your attention, and as you zoom out, the variegated, geometric gold petals shimmer slightly, accentuated by a midnight blue backdrop. The last thing you'll notice is the hefty weave, which adds just the right amount of texture and a little masculine handle to the femininity of floral patterns. Significant, but subtle.

Wednesday 28 November 2007

Let's get down to the nuts and bolts


You don't have to be and engineer or rigger to appreciate the structural integrity of these nut and bolt cufflinks and you don't need a spanner to tighten them. They will rig your cuffs firmly and give you something to fiddle with during those boring board room meetings. Made from solid sterling silver, presented in a lovely wooden box, an original by Veritas Precious Metal Design

Thursday 22 November 2007

Floral Justice


The floral tie has been hanging darkly in wardrobes far too long, it's time for justice. And just because autumn is upon us does not mean we have to reflect gloom in the clothes we wear. Add some cheer to grey sulky skies with this tribute to the designer tie exclusive to Patrick McMurray An artists' rendition of Point Sienna flowers, woven onto ultra fine satin silk.

Wednesday 14 November 2007

A Silk Tie For All Seasons


Ties designed by inspiration look and feel different from those, pulled from scrap books and archives, driven by market research, or forced by trend setters and style gurus. The difference is inspiration, the result, silk ties that will never hang darkly in your wardrobe, bright and cheerful, free from classification: Colours of dawn and dusk, tropical, Mediterranean, even arctic, autumn, winter, spring and summer, a Victoria Richards Silk Tie.

Tuesday 30 October 2007

Timothy Everest Silk Ties: Symmetry, order of the day


Timothy Everest's new collection of premier silk ties, set against an autumn landscape, they celebrate a return to geometric patterns, symmetry the order of the day. Nothing is lost as small patterns pronounced by light colours and arrangement against a backdrop of richly textured burgundy, brown and midnight blue. There's value in conservative styling, not being a novelty it doesn't wear off, so as fashion completes many cycles, in years to come won't look out of place. And coordinating becomes a welcome task. Select wisely. Who is Timothy Everest? "Find out"

Tuesday 23 October 2007

Jon Snow Silk Ties


Channel 4 anchor man Jon Snow has gained a reputation for his impeccable taste for designer ties and his favourite designer Victoria Richards hones her creativity on the back of his loyal custom. Having perfected print techniques Victoria has been working closely with Britain’s longest established silk weavers to develop a range of richly textured woven silks. They reflect the vivid colours used in print that originally attracted the attention of Jon Snow, but weave adds another dimension not possible to achieve with print. Victoria’s, unique approach to design offers another level of choice for customers seeking individuality and quality.

Friday 5 October 2007

Simon Carter Mother of Pearl Petal Cufflinks


Mother of Pearl, the best that nature has to offer, transformed into a floral master piece by Simon carter. In this instance, the latest laser cutting technology for precision and economics is used to cut and shape Mother of Pearl. The delicate petals frame beautifully a small crystal representing the bud. Want a matching tie for these designer cufflinks? Look no further than this page.

Louis Feraud Floral Designer Tie


A colourful silk tie that reflects the brilliant hues of autumn by Louis Feraud, using tightly clad floral shapes that fill the tie completely, there is no background, semblance of an autumn day. Following in the footsteps of Jean Patou, a Paris fashion designer who invented the designer tie in 1920 Feraud sought to introduce a touch of femininity to men’s accessories, for after all women buy 3 out of 4 ties. But Feraud was more than a fashion designer; he was an artist and entrepreneur and sought the success of his brand name as much as he did his paintings. Now for an ideal pair of cufflinks to match, easy enough, a floral rendition using Mother of Pearl by Simon Carter.

Tuesday 2 October 2007

Shane McCoubrey’s Signature Designer Silk Tie


The Splashes silk tie, as Shane calls it, has been the hallmark of his success as a fashion designer. After working for Gucci and Vuitton he decided to harness his energies and start his own brand, since then he has never looked back. Conde-Nast, Drapers and other respected fashion magazines have featured the man and his products. But Shane is bent on keeping a low profile so he can continue playing a hand on role and stay ahead of the game designing men’s fashion accessories that stand out from the crowd. His Splashes range of silk ties certainly achieves this status. On a base of rich cream faintly overlaid pink and silver stripes are overlaid again with brilliant splashes of colour arranged randomly, forming an abstract pattern, a tie to behold and a very popular choice for weddings. One thing is for certain you won’t have to worry about sitting next to someone who is wearing the same tie. “Worth more than a look” Now the only cufflink imaginable to match is the “Cube Multi Coloured Swarovski Crystal Cufflink” by Ian Flaherty London, like the splashes tie it sports hundreds of miniature coloured crystals that catch the light at every turn and mirror perfectly the brilliance of Shane’s masterpiece.

Tuesday 25 September 2007

Enamel and Silver Cufflinks: Birmingham’s contribution


Occupying a space in Birmingham’s famous jewellery quarter is the London Badge and Button Company (Lbb London) owned by Toye, Kenning & Spencer Ltd the oldest family run businesses in the world, having been established in England over 300 years ago by a family of Huguenot refugees the Toyés. Since 1685 members of the Toye family have been using their skills to create fine enamel and silver jewellery. The London Badge and Button Company has over 30 years of experience in design and development of fine silver-gilt and silver cufflinks for high fashion men's accessories retailers. Each cufflink captures a unique heritage, a manifestation of craftsmanship trough the ages.

Feraud, School tie, Designer Tie


Everything that can be said about designer silk ties has been said, everyone proclaims that their ties are made from the finest silks in the world, they’re handmade to exacting specifications and so on, it all starts to sound a bit staid. Louis Feraud designer silk ties are simply conservative, cleverly arranged stripes using colours that are easy to coordinate, reminiscent of the old school tie, simplicity at its best. They’re made from the same kind silks that hundreds of other brands use and they’re made in Italy at the same factory that hundreds of other brand names use. At least you know what you’re getting, a reasonable tie for a reasonable price with a very good name attached.

Monday 24 September 2007

A Golden Designer Silk Tie


Shane McCoubrey has come up with a colourful rendering, transforming art and craft into a distinct fashion accessory. Turn the tie into the light, the colours change from gold to lilac and back again, hand woven on wooden looms is the only way to achieve the desired depth of texture and colour variation. Want a matching pair of cufflinks? The obvious choice, a pair of Gold Naval Lace Cufflinks by Veritas Gifts (Precious Metal Designs)

Another Gold Naval Lace Designer Cufflink, By Veritas


Innovation and master craft manifest, using gold naval lace by Hand & Lock, set into solid sterling silver to produce a pair of cufflinks; the result of Veritas a jewellery designer at the top of his game, six years with iconic Jeweller Tiffany is adequate testimony. Want a matching silk tie? Take a look at one by Shane McCoubrey, made from silks woven on wooden looms in England, a perfect match.

Friday 21 September 2007

Enamel and Silver Cufflinks: Birmingham’s contribution


Occupying a space in Birmingham’s famous jewellery quarter is the London Badge and Button Company (Lbb London) owned by the Toye Group of companies. Toye, Kenning & Spencer Ltd are one of the oldest family run businesses in the world, having been established in England over 300 years ago by a family of Huguenot refugees the Toyés.

Since 1685 members of the Toye family have been using their skills to create fine enamel and silver jewellery. The London Badge and Button Company has over 30 years of experience in design and development of fine silver-gilt and silver cufflinks for high fashion men's accessories retailer. Each cufflink captures a unique heritage, a manifestation of true craftsmanship.

Wednesday 19 September 2007

Cubism: In a Designer Cufflink?


The Cube Designer Cufflink by Ian Flaherty, sporting 80 Swarovski Crystals a piece and recently voted one of the best gifts for Father’s day by Victoria Gray of the Sunday Express Magazine. Precision is equalled by quality and they’re made in England.

Monday 17 September 2007

Simplicity: The Simon Carter Cufflink philosophy


Simon Carter’s reputation stems from his revolutionary approach to cufflink design following his introductory men’s brooches, in the mid to late 80’s. Some of his original designs are classified vintage. Simon Carter maintains a philosophy of simplicity in his designs; simple, functional, without loosing their stylish edge. His cufflinks not only firm to cuff, they glean a touch of elegance and frame perfectly an object of expression. This lovely display of style and engineering will harmonise with any outfit, formal or casual, here an important function inherent in Simon’s philosophy of simplicity, a cufflink for all occasions.

Tuesday 11 September 2007

A Sunflower Silver Designer Cufflink: Topaz-Fuchsia-Amber


If you’re looking for some colour in your life—“The Sunflower” in hues that are sure to appeal to any tastes, like Topaz, Fuchsia and Amber. Just a hint of styles produced by Veritas, generously sized Swarovski Crystals embedded into Solid Sterling Silver. And with an engineered swivel base, they’re built to give many years good linkage to cuff.

Monday 10 September 2007

Gold Naval Lace Designer Cufflinks: Fit for Officers


Gold Naval lace used for officers uniforms, produced by “Hand & Lock” of London, sitting side by side, Onyx semi precious stones, as black as night and framed by pure sterling silver, mirroring black and gold: Made in Thailand, a country rich in the ancient craft of fine jewellery making, befitting jewellers like “Veritas” and “Links of London” who demand the highest quality finish for their customers--cufflinks so rich in history and textural influences, a rare combination of materials to be sure and not to be found in bargain basements, but also not of reach, at £95.00, a must for any avid collector.

About Naval lace and Hand & Lock; A London Company that still makes gold lace, a fascinating story, here is a taste. In 1767 Goldlacemen called Hand, originally Huguenot Weavers from Flanders, added embroidery to their range of laces, cords and braids. Their skills came from the entourage of Catherine de Medicis, when she married into the French court in the 16th century. They learnt the ancient Italian secrets of gold lace and made them their own. It was at this time that heraldic art was used to provide a sign of distinction and to recognise the wearer’s achievement. Garments trimmed with gold lace and embroidery set the wearer apart. The measure of their rank and status was the quality of their apparel.

Friday 7 September 2007

Sterling Silver Designer Cufflinks: It’s Piracy


Skull and Cross Bones, the symbol of piracy on the high seas: this one--a real treasure and the best rendition of a very popular style. No less than 32 Swarovski crystals, a piece, adorn these little gems. “The Globe” is another amongst the Veritas collection, impressionable, everlasting styles. If you’re looking for some colour in your life—“The Sunflower” in hues that are sure to appeal to any tastes, like Topaz, Fuchsia and Amber. Just a hint of styles produced by Veritas, want more?

Thursday 6 September 2007

A Designer Silk Tie in Fragrant Blossom


The Spitalfield flower pattern can be traced back to Huguenot weavers of the1800’s. Today recognised as the trademark of the Timothy Everest brand. He’s given the flower new life. It’s essence captured tastefully in a new range of lovely, colourful silk ties that reflect the brilliant hues of nature. Be ware of imitations, this pattern is exclusive to Timothy Everest, it’s his signature. Turn the tie over and you’ll witness the finite detail that only a tailor could conceive. The Spitalfields flower in fragrant blossom all seasons. It doesn’t end there, the entire collection blooms into autumn, prevail the winter gloom. And for spring it’s even brighter, classic style in a contemporary framework, each tie, an example of fine English needle work

Tuesday 4 September 2007

Lbb London: The precision designer cufflink


Based in Birmingham’s historic Jewellery Quarter, The London Badge & Button Company, part of Toye Kenning & Spencer has over 30 years experience in the design and development of fine cufflinks, buttons and men’s accessories and are the manufacturers behind many of the UK’s leading stores and fashion house collections.

Louisa Taylor and Pei-Nap Mok is the award winning design team behind the current LBB London cufflink collection.

Traditionally recognised for its strong & distinctive enamel designs, LBB’s current collection has expanded to use new & unusual materials for both its classic & contemporary cufflinks with matching accessories.

There’s a sense of precision in Lbb London cufflinks. That, perhaps significant technology lay behind the hands at work creating masters and models.

Toye, Kenning & Spencer Ltd is a group of manufacturing companies founded in 1685, with a reputation for high quality craftsmanship and service. The Group, who have an experienced in house design team, were working on a new collection for the re launch of their retail brand LBB London. Keen to further develop concept designs that required complex master models, they approached the JIIC to assist in the 3D CAD modelling and to access the centres RP facilities and expertise.

The initial brief was to provide TKS with access to new technology in order to help implement their new product development plan for a range of cufflinks. The JIIC team assisted with CAD/CAM and RP and were able to provide the company with prototype and master models within a short timescale. This meant the product development time was shortened, speeding up the lead time to market and creating a longer buying period for their range cufflinks

Results

The assistance helped the company to ‘realise’ new designs which might not have been possible with internal model making skills

o The assistance helped the company to research and to test the market with new product

o The product development lead time was reduced

o Higher sales figures were generated as a direct result of new design reaching the market at the desired time

o The assistance demonstrated the use of RP technologies to other parts of the business and provided them with the opportunity to assess potential applications of new technology for the future.

A sound relationship has been developed with the Group and the JIIC is now working with the company to conduct a feasibility study into the use of laser welding for bespoke precious and base metal jewellery and medals, and the use of lasers for production methods, within their factories.

Could Lbb Cufflinks not be the very first precision cufflink?

A designers hand possessed with such discipline to marry form and function, while gleaning materials that impress upon you textural influences. Smoothly extending the stem to cradle adornments and display all colours of a rainbow: Concluding, a sophistication expressed by precision, abstract and sense of colour, a truly beautiful cufflink.

The Elusive Designer Tie


Neil Bottle’s customers include Hillary Clinton and Cherrie Blare; his textiles designs have hung in some of the most famous galleries and museums in the world, including Guggenheim New York and The V&A London. His designer silk ties and scarves were on the (A) list of buyers from Libertys of London to Harrods. Out of the limelight, he still produces in small quantities, no longer available in high street stores, never the less, collectables, even more reasons to add one to your collection

Monday 3 September 2007

More than a cufflink designer


Veering off the conventional path, without loosing control, Ian Flaherty has produced a small range of designer ties worthy of the highest praise. They’ll give many give many years good knottage, while complimenting his illustrious cufflinks. Added value, they’re completely woven and handmade in England. To be seen to be different, the choice is yours.

Friday 31 August 2007

Feraud Designer Ties: Impact-less


The Louis Feraud Brand has yet to make an impact with its men’s accessory range. The ties are adventurous enough, but in short bursts, the rest of the collection have little to say. Although lack lustre the name is on the move and the look gets stronger each season, if you compare with brands like Armani you’ll be disappointed. Stand alone, Feraud ties are made in Italy to exacting specifications and price wise, a good entry point. The opinion, any Feraud product is worth having in a collection. A bit of floral, some paisley and add a few stripes, a safe recipe to begin with.

Thursday 30 August 2007

A Swank Designer Silk Tie.


Shane McCoubrey started his own label after working all over the world designing for, Louis Vuitton, Valentino and Gucci. Happy to go it alone and develop his distinctive style he’s gradually gaining recognition. Drawing inspiration from the 60’s Lava Lamps, Shane produced some vivid renditions for his introductory range of Designer Silk Ties; you’ll have to search long and hard to find ties that reflect such artistic prowess with true individuality. Shane has a small dedicated following.


Monday 27 August 2007

Simplicity: The Simon Carter philosophy


Simon Carter’s reputation stems from his revolutionary approach to cufflink design following his introductory men’s brooches, in the mid to late 80’s. Some of his original designs are classified vintage. Simon Carter maintains a philosophy of simplicity in the design of all his accessories; they simply perform a function without loosing stylish edge. His cufflinks not only firm to cuff, they glean a touch of elegance and frame perfectly an object of expression. This lovely display of style and engineering will harmonise with any outfit, formal or casual, here an important function inherent in Simon’s philosophy of simplicity, a cufflink for all occasions.

Thursday 23 August 2007

Precision Designer Cufflinks


How refreshing it is, too, gaze over a collection of cufflinks so consistent in mathematical correctness. And when gathered, resemble soldiers in immaculate uniform, marching in perfect formation, poetic stride. Abstractive is dominated by high tech precision, with zero tolerance. The subtle, abstract placement of colour, ordered within, take the edge off discipline

A designers hand possessed with such discipline to marry perfect form and function, while gleaning materials that impress upon you textural influences. Smoothly extending the stem to cradle adornments and display all colours of a rainbow: Concluding, a sophistication expressed by precision, abstract and sense of colour, a truly beautiful cufflink.

Lbb London, perhaps the very first precision cufflink”

Wednesday 22 August 2007

A Swank Retro Designer Cufflink


Swank Inc a popular designer and manufacturer of men’s cufflinks were incorporated on April 17, 1936. When Cufflinks peaked in the 1960’s they were making 12 million a year.

Even though these were aimed at the lowest end of the market, retailing for an average of $2.50 a pair, that still adds up to a lot of men wearing cufflinks. These days the figure is closer to 200,000, but cufflinks are making a strong comeback with gross sales having increased consistently over the last ten years.

The most expensive cufflinks ever sold were a pair given to the soon-to-be
King Edward VIII by his later wife Wallis Simpson. These featured diamonds
set in platinum and sold at auction for $440,000.

“Interesting story, swank cufflinks”

Tuesday 21 August 2007

And then came Nathan Tim: A glass designer cufflink


Nathan Tim is a new name to the fashion industry, armed with a mission and a collection of floral Cufflinks that reflect the brilliant hues of nature, showcased in rigid Murano Glass. The flowers captured within reflect not just the timeless beauty of its petals, but also a richly textured history of fine glass making, stemming back many hundreds of years. And Nathan Tim has unearthed the best of the best.

There’s no need to say anymore, the products speak for themselves.

Monday 20 August 2007

A Rare Designer Cufflink


A new range of enamel cufflinks have quietly arrived on the market. They’re beautifully formed from English Pewter, gleaning vitreous enamels that impress upon you textural influences that give life to lifeless forms. There is a horse and rider in breathless pursuit of the unfortunate Fox, the Mallard and Partridge, Pheasant, and Trout, all brought to still life by the artistic prowess of Ian Flaherty. You can surf the net and trod the high streets, but you’ll be hard pressed to find anything that compares with Ian’s latest work.

“Short and sweet”

Wednesday 15 August 2007

Fused Glass Cufflinks: Artistic Intervention: (Murano Glass)


Every now and then I stumble upon designers (fashion or otherwise) that are hidden away somewhere in the woodwork (why hidden?) The other day was one of those “every now and then” occasions. I stumbled upon, Jo Downs, a jewellery designer, while searching for objects befitting men’s collectable fashion accessories. An opportune time to reflect, we balance mass production with bespoke; enter Jo Downs.

Jo is one of the world’s most prominent fused glass designers. She manufactures a rainbow of men’s cufflinks and a kaleidoscope of jewellery for women. Her advanced fusion techniques create abstract designs that fill and warm the coldness and emptiness of glass giving life to the most inanimate material, impressing textural influences, while gleaning colour to glass. Just a glance at her stuff will allay any doubt of her ability and conjure happy feelings, for art is to be appreciated, it should delight the observer enough to want to own a piece of it, for art is not a dark science for the portrayal of despair and ruin, what sense in art that conjures remorse.

It’s not just jewellery that takes form in her studio; glass panel designs are commissioned by renowned architects and hang in famous buildings. And there are objects that decorate home’s sideboards and tables. Coasters, a mere delight to meet the eye, all colours of the rainbow are captured in glass as delicate as ice, but as warm as the sun that filters through open windows of spring time.

To fully appreciate more than the poetic beauty of Jo’s art form, as scientific intervention plays as major role in the formation of art as does the artist creative hand. It would help to understand a glint of history of fused glass production stemming from Murano glass techniques and how history continues to impact on the contemporary formation of things.

Murano, an island located near Venice, is still today regarded as being synonymous with the production of the finest and most elegant glass. Murano's products are the most recognizable glass around the world. Murano glass is often referred to as "cristallo" due to its unique properties.

The art of glass-making in Venice has been present in the city since its very settlement. The Venetians acquired glass-making techniques from other civilisations through their extensive trading colonies in the Eastern Mediterranean and Islamic territories. Around the year 1292, Venetian glassmakers learned every known aspect of glassmaking. Although they were not the only ones to make glass, Venetian production has always been more refined. In the same period, the whole Venetian glassmaking production was moved to the isolated island of Murano becoming one of the world's first industrial districts.

As glass trading with fine Venetian glass was one of the leading sources of trade, it comes as no surprise that glassmaking was one of Venice's most guarded secrets. The art of glassmaking was handed down from father to son, and then became a trade exclusively for those born on the island of Murano. A glassmaker that left the Venetian State was condemned to death as a traitor.

The dominance of Venetian glass lasted until the 19th century when the mutated political situation lead to the development of glassmaking in other European countries. However, the Murano School remains one of the most important in the world, and has retained its influence right up to modern times.

Have a look at Jo Down's cufflinks and while you’re at it have a look at Ian Flaherty’s cufflinks as well, they’re the hallmark of British design excellence.

Sunday 12 August 2007

Simon Carter Designer Watches, timeless pieces, keeping perfect time


Simon Carter’s reputation stems from his revolutionary approach to cufflink design following his introductory men’s brooches, beginning in the mid to late 80’s. Some of his original designs are now vintage. Progressing to other popular men’s accessories like wallets, belts, ties and watches seemed like the natural thing to do. And Simon has left his impression on all. Now his Designer watches take centre stage, simple, functional, of classical form these timeless pieces keep perfect time and you don’t need a degree in mechanical engineering to operate their functions.

Made in Germany using Swiss or Japanese movements you get double the precision and structural integrity. Germans, Japanese and Swiss are renowned for their engineering prowess and so you’re assured of quality and longevity. The styles revolve around classic forms complimented by modern technology. Some styles have quartz.

A favourite is the classically formed WT815W, handsome and very functional. Simon Carter maintains a philosophy of simplicity in this watch, it simply keeps good time: Square stainless steel case and square face, silver sunray dial with Arabic numerals, date window, sweeping seconds hand. The croc leather strap not only firms the watch to wrist, it gleans a touch of elegance and frames perfectly an object of time. This lovely display of style and engineering will harmonise with any outfit, formal or casual, here an important function inherent in Simon’s philosophy of simplicity, a watch for all occasions.

As “retro” trends widen to engulf all forms of fashion accessories, watches by Simon Carter fit the trend and remain true to good form and function. They’re second in popularity to his cufflinks and the range is comprehensive enough to make it easy to select a style.

Going back to Carter’s beginning, when he sold men’s brooches, a trend which is set for revival. Already Vivienne Westwood and other notable brands have a small selection in their seasonal collections. There are few ways a man can express himself without being negatively labelled, basically we’re restricted to silk ties and cufflinks. Brooches seem a natural progression upwards, sitting on jacket lapel, they could replicate cufflinks and compliment the tie you’re wearing and not look out of place. It would conclude an already comprehensive lifestyle range of accessories. The materials at designer’s hands await its master’s inspiration to transform metal, glass and stones into vibrant artistic form ready for displaying. Perhaps we can encourage Simon Carter to rekindle.

His revolutionary beginnings gave him solid grounding, and gave way to a more sensible approach. Now he need not make such a splash. Simon has garnered much respect from industry members and consumers. His sound reputation supports his entry into other market areas successfully. The products speak for themselves.

And so completes the lifestyle range, you can own a set of accessories that perform a function or simply used to express yourself, and all affordable.

Monday 16 July 2007

A Tie For All Seasons


And as autumn approaches fashion completes another seasonal cycle. And we wait in great anticipation for new styles freshly watered down from the catwalks. New designers emerge while others blend in with the back ground. And so another turbulent season approaches. Buyers like me have to be in close communion with the turbulence of an industry subject to constant change. For the online shop I buy for, developing a theme is as important as selecting styles by designers. The chosen theme is “made in England” it goes against the grain as more and more brands head East to reduce production costs, at risk of devaluing their brand.

If you’re looking for value, there is always something new and exciting, but not easy to find. “Made in England” individuality and originality need not cost a fortune, so if your budget is a little tight, don’t be concerned, because there are brand names that cater to your needs, at the right price.

One prime example is Timothy Everest a long time emerging Savile Row tailor, remember this name, it will be making fashion headlines on a regular basis over the next five years. His ties are accompanied by the conservatism expected of Savile Row, but without loosing a hint of originality, affordable luxury best describes Timothy’s ties, made in England with the Savile Row stamp of approval, all this for £45.00.

Moving slightly away from the conservative tone of Savile Row, and across the Thames River to Battersea, we take a look at Ian Flaherty, a man of substantial artistic talent. Already renowned world wide for his vibrant cufflink designs, he uses pure English Pewter, Swarovski Crystals and brilliant enamels. His silk ties strike a similar chord, they reflect through colour arrangement and symmetry, brilliance, unique to Ian Flaherty. Slightly more expensive than Timothy Everest at £59.00, all his designs are produced in limited quantities and handmade in London. They’re sure to give many years good knottage.

And to a more unlikely candidate: Vivienne Westwood, founder and promoter of the Punk Style. She has ventured down every road from designing evening gowns to crockery for Wedgwood. Three times winner of “fashion designer of the year” and awarded DBE in 2006 for her contribution to the fashion industry. Vivienne’s ties are as original as you can get without being garish novelties. In August her spring summer collection will be on display. The big surprise is her cufflinks they’re as refreshing as a cool breeze on a hot summer’s day. It’s easy to see why Vivienne is held in such high regard. And her ties are only £55.00, not bad, considering her credentials.

As autumn approaches I look forward to spring summer, not to welcome the warm weather but to welcome the arrival of the new collections of some of my favourite designers. “English made true to my theme”.

Saturday 14 July 2007

The Evolution of the Harris Tweed Jacket


The Harris Tweed Jacket is recognised worldwide as an icon of British style. It’s a home grown classic with a proud heritage and a distinct provenance. Since its founding in England in the nineteenth century, Harris Tweed has been synonymous with quality - as defined by the endurance, classicism and functionality that characterised its history

Continuing, Harris Tweed adorns the shoulders of English gentry countrywide. Sitting perfectly with English Madder Ties, Prince of Wales checks and flannel trousers, It complements a recognisable style that remains true to form and function with a distinctive British sensibility. Like most quintessential home grown classics Harris Tweed stand the test of time, even today designers include it in their seasonal collections. It is emblematic of such a proud heritage.

Harris Tweed was born out of function rather than out of style, but given support by the Aristocracy soon changed the way it was viewed tweed became fashionable and demand for Harris Tweed grew.

From its humble bespoke beginnings to the catwalks of the world.

In 1846, Lady Dunmore, widow of the late Earl of Dunmore, had the Murray tartan copied by Harris weavers in tweed. This proved so successful that Lady Dunmore devoted much time and thought to marketing the tweed to her friends and then to improving the process of production. This was the beginning of the Harris Tweed industry.

As a result of the marketing efforts of Lady Dunmore, increased sales of the tweed were achieved and trade was established with cloth merchants in large towns in the UK.

At about the turn of the century the primitive small loom was replaced by the improved "fly-shuttle" loom. This was made of wood and heavier than the earlier loom tending to make weaving an occupation for men rather than women. Although originally imported from the Galashiels a local joiner started making the new type of loom in 1903.

At a meeting in Stornoway in 1906 efforts were considered for placing the industry on a more satisfactory footing. This was a most harmonious meeting and as the Trade Marks Act had been passed in 1905 making provision for a registration of Standardisation Marks, it seemed to be novel opportunity to end the increasing practice of offering mill-spun tweed as genuine Harris Tweed.

Harris Tweed means tweed which has been hand woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the islands of Harris, Lewis, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra and their several purtenances (The Outer Hebrides) and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.

The late 90s are a difficult time for the British textile industry and Harris Tweed is no exception. However there is confidence that the hard decisions taken to reform the industry will eventually bear fruit and secure the future of this unique product.

In 2004 Nike bought ten thousand metres of Harris Tweed and produced a range of Harris Tweed trainers for women. Nothing like this had been done and it gave the island producers the boost they needed.

May Harris Tweed survive, without it what else is there?

Wednesday 4 July 2007

Handmade Designer Cufflinks


As a buyer for an online shop selling men’s luxury fashion accessories, including cufflinks, I have to adhere to customer demands and source products accordingly. If you don’t to your customers they won’t buy. And so begins an arduous task.

The men’s fashion accessories market in England is undersupplied and the demand for English made products is strong and getting stronger, so the balance is in my favour, however meeting this demand is not easy. To find cufflinks that conform to core principles of good design .i.e. “form and function” amongst all the imitations. The task gets harder and even more so when searching for cufflinks that are handmade in England with a maximum retail price of £65.00. However through persistence, my searching tactics were well rewarded. The first designer I discovered that conformed to my selection criteria was Ian Flaherty who works out of his London studio. His cufflinks stems are made from pure English Pewter, double coated with rhodium and inset with Swarovski Crystals or hand enamelled. Ian’s cufflinks are smartly designed and true to good form and function and priced accordingly.

A pair of Ian’s Swarovski Cube cufflinks were hand picked by Victoria Gray editor of The Sunday Express Magazine and recently featured under the title “Twelve of the best gifts for father’s day” They were an instant hit.

There are few ways men can express themselves without their character being called into question. Wearing cufflinks and neckties are two ways to do this. If you’re going to express yourself then do it with style. So if you’re looking for something out of the ordinary without looking like a garish novelty then Ian Flaherty’s cufflinks are worth more than a glance. And when you consider the materials used in their construction and the fact that they are handmade in England the price is no longer an issue.

And if price is an issue then there is no need for concern. Thanks to Simon Carter another premier British designer who recognised the demand for affordable cufflinks that differ from the rest, but without carrying the price tag. Simons’ cufflinks are not handmade in England; nickel is used instead of pewter or silver. Less expensive materials are used to adorn the cufflinks, like cat’s-eye glass in varying shades. Another favourite material of Simons’ is Mother of Pearl and Paua Shell, which comes from the far away shores of New Zealand. The way the materials are combined and arranged ensures individuality and from a starting price of £29.00 you’re assured value for money. One of his latest designs is very clever, called the Aspirin; you can store your headache pills, which are just a twist of the lid away.

There are other British designers on my list but as yet not fully researched, more on these another time. In the meantime do have a look at these designers’ products and save yourself the leg work.

Saturday 30 June 2007

In Search of the Elusive Designer Tie


It has become increasingly difficult to find a designer tie that truly differs from all the rest. We’re offered more choice, but less variety, don’t you think? As a buyer I set out to make a marginal contribution to increase variety and offer another level of choice generally not found in high street stores or websites. I’ve scoured the English continent to find those elusive silk ties that stand out from the rest. There’s an awful lot of talent out there, equal to that found in the top international fashion houses, the only difference is the independents don’t have the marketing budgets to propel them onto the international stage.

The Falling Leaves Silk Tie

First on the list is Cressida Bell with a real gem that only a woman could design, appropriately named “Falling Leaves Tie” it reflects the brilliant hues of nature, a perfect tie for all seasons. Cressida comes from a long line of artists, writers and poets; her Father was Quentin Bell, writer and painter. Her Grandmother was Vanessa Bell the painter and Virginia Wolf her great aunt. Cressida has designed for some big names like Laura Ashley and Richard James. Her ties are screened printed in Gloucestershire, hand made in Essex and available at a handful of boutiques and websites. This tie is a must for any collection.

The Circle and Wave Silk Tie
Next, another unique design, hand printed onto crepe satin silk and fully lined. This one is by Neil Bottle, he works out of his studio on the Kent coast. His customers include Hillary Clinton and Cherrie Blair. Neil has been commissioned by Guggenheim Gallery New York, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. His ties have been sold in Harrods and Liberties of London. Now he focuses his energies lecturing at universities in England and abroad, passing on a wealth of knowledge in textile design and print technique. Neil still finds time to produce a small range of silk scarves and silk ties, which are produced in limited quantities, making them collectables.

The Splashes Silk Tie
Shane McCoubrey recently moved from London to Margate on the Kent coast for fresh inspiration. Having worked on brand development for Gucci, Vuitton and Samsonite, Shane decided to harness his energies and develop his own brand. Now his designer ties are gaining recognition, he’s been featured in magazines like Drapers, Arena and Conde Nast. Made from English woven silks, his ties are genuinely hand made and equal in design and quality to any international brand. Watch out for Shane McCoubrey.

The products designed and produced by these designers are true to good form and function. They’re smartly designed, ever functional and due to their handmade nature will give many years good knottage. Most importantly they will hold their value and become genuine collectables; each one is a work of art.

Thanks to dedicated designers like Cressida Bell, Shane McCoubrey and Neil Bottle those in search of the elusive designer tie that truly differs from all the rest are appeased.

Friday 22 June 2007

An Abstract Silk Tie


As a stylist Vivienne Westwood has remained peerless for decades. From co-founder of the punk style to DBE, it’s been a long road out of Tintwistle to the international fashion arena and back again. She managed to tuck some big names under her belt along the way, like Wedgwood. And picked up a few best designer awards as well.

Vivienne doesn’t waste breath giving lip service to originality and individuality, she lives them. Just a glance at her credentials will reveal this to be true and allay any doubt of her ability.

Incorporating historic elements into contemporary styles has been the hallmark of Vivienne’s many successes over the past 30 years. Her label is recognised worldwide as an icon of British style. It’s a home grown classic with a proud heritage and a distinct provenance. Since its founding in England in the early 70’s, Vivienne Westwood has been synonymous with quality - as defined by the endurance, classicism and functionality that characterised its history.

Now Vivienne has an impressive range of silk ties and cufflinks, they’re as cool and refreshing as a sea breeze on a hot summer’s day. Far from being garish novelties, they reflect a fashion designer’s talent at its peak.

The cufflinks take on the Orb in variation. Using rhodium as a base and encrusted with crystals, they glean boldly from subtle stems, skull and cross bones, love and hate, or just simply the Orb, into what is unmistakably Westwood -- a designer brand, impossible to mimic. Radicalism is captured cleverly, using “tongue in cheek” styles balanced with smart design with a classical edge.

The ties, expertly made in Italy, just a brief handle will satisfy your senses and make you feel immediately you’re in touch with stylish quality. You’re compelled to tie the knot, if not just for the experience, but to have it as part of your collection. An abstract stroke of an artists brush sitting on a familiar background tells a story all its own, again Vivienne takes a classical form and adds her unique signature, abstractly or otherwise there is no mistaking.

Vivienne Isabel Swire was born in Glossopdale, Derbyshire, on 8 April 1941. Her mother had been a weaver in the local cotton mills and her father came from a family of shoemakers. Her parents ran a sub post office in Tintwistle before moving to north-west London in the 1950’s.

In 1965 she met Malcolm McLaren together they went on to become one of the most creative partnerships in history and as they say the rest is history.

Vivienne Westwood accepted a DBE in the 2006 New Year's Honours List "for services to fashion", She has won the award for British Designer of the Year three times. In December 2003, she and the Wedgwood pottery company launched a series of tea sets featuring her designs, testimony to her versatility and maturity and the respect she has garnered, a far cry from Punk.

Tuesday 12 June 2007

A Short History about an English Madder Silk Tie


The English madder silk tie is recognised worldwide as an icon of British style. It’s a home grown classic with a proud heritage and a distinct provenance. The “madder” part of this lovely phrase refers to a natural dye from a Eurasian herbaceous plant, Rubia tinctoria.

Its continuing success through decades of rise and fall owe much too scientific intervention. The colouring agent in madder root called alizarin was in fact first chemically extracted and then synthesized in 1869 by two English chemists. Although the dyeing process, even today, requires a variety of painstaking steps, synthesized alizarin brought the price within the reach of commercial producers. Testimony to the significant part science plays ensuring the longevity of styles and textiles. Silk dyed in this manner is characterized by a dusty-looking finish and a feel (referred to as a chalk hand by the experts) very much like fine suede, and a matte finish.

Continuing, madder ties adorn the necks of English gentry countrywide. Sitting perfectly with tweed jackets and checked shirts. It complements a recognisable style that remains true to form and function with a distinctive British sensibility. Like most quintessential home grown classics madder ties stand the test of time, even today designers include them in their seasonal collections. Michelsons tie makers since 1937 regularly produce a small range of madder prints. Commonly using small paisley and geometric patterns against a richly coloured back drop is emblematic of such a proud heritage. Paisley madder ties have been a status symbol on college campuses since the 1930s, as natty alternative to the traditional striped tie.

Let’s not forget other methods of print, like screen printing, which is still very much alive in traditional form and widely used by the fashion industry in preference to digital print. Although labour intensive and more costly to produce than woven silks, the resultant quality of screen printing is far superior to any digital print techniques. But watch your backs, digital print technology is rapidly improving and within five to seven years it will be knocking on the door of traditionalists beckoning them to accept change or close their doors forever. You can’t ignore progress, without it very few could afford to buy a madder tie. Digital print will eventually drive down printing costs making products more affordable for the general public.

If you’re a collector then it’s not complete without madder. Frank Sinatra is reputed to have such in his collection of five hundred, which he often gave to adoring fans when touring.

It’s a short story with a long history.

Now chaps don’t rush off in pursuit of that elusive madder silk tie left hanging darkly in your wardrobe. Wait until autumn is upon us and choose one that matches the brilliant hues of nature of which we are very much apart of. Finally if you want something really special then you should look for a Neil Bottle or Cressida Bell printed tie, they’re not easy to come by, but a tie collection is not complete without.

Friday 8 June 2007

Why choose a Michelsons Silk Tie?


Michelsons was founded in 1937 and is the UK's leading manufacturer of silk ties and menswear accessories. Based in Sittingbourne in the County of Kent, Michelsons employs a workforce fully versed in the traditions and craftsmanship of fine neckwear manufacture, skills which they pride in the quality of their product and the fact that it is made in England. So far, so good, one reason to buy a Michelsons silk tie, at least you know where it comes from, wait there’s more reasons.

If you’re going to expel energy searching, locating and purchasing a silk tie, it makes good sense to ensure that you’re getting something worthy of your efforts. Hastily choosing a cheap tie will mean repeating the whole process again far sooner than necessary, because the tie you got for a ‘bargain’ starts falling apart at the seams.

£29.00 will get a high quality silk tie made in England by Michelsons from imported silks. Properly cared for it will last you many years. A lot of men would balk at spending £29.00. But consider this. If you work in an office in the city, then you’ll most likely indulge in one or two cappuccinos a day at a cost of about £2.00 each = £4.00 a day minimum. So by Friday’s end you’ve spent £20.00 or more without balking and what do you end up with? Spending £29.00 on a tie, something tangible that will last 10 years minimum is a better investment. This doesn’t mean you have to give up coffee to buy a tie. Just don’t waste your time and energy, because you’ll end up paying more for less.

Even better, £35.00 will get you a silk tie made in England from silks woven in England. This is a good choice. You could go whole hog and pay £45.00 to £65.00, the choice and variety broaden considerably at these price points. For example £45.00 will buy you a Timothy Everest (Savile Row Tailor) handmade silk tie made under license by Michelsons. £65.00 will get you a Paul Smith, or Thomas Pink tie also made by Michelsons.

Here is another important factor to consider. If a necktie is the epitome of male self expression and you stoop as low to donning a £10 tie, then what are you expressing? If women pass positive comment on the tie you’re wearing then you’ve made the right choice. you’re making the right kind of expression, which converts to the right kind of impression. Remember women buy three out of four neckties.

Michelsons extensive collection of tie designs tops twelve thousand. Under licensing agreements with big brand names like Paul Smith and Timothy Everest, they manufacture and distribute ties to customers worldwide, it’s what they do best.

Michelsons continuing survival in the face of the mass manufacturing revolution of Asia is testimony to the respect they have garnered through delivering high quality products backed up with excellent service. Customers keep going back precisely because Michelsons don’t cut corners.

So, good enough reasons to buy a Michelsons tie, whether it is, Paul Smith, Timothy Everest or Thomas Pink, it’s a Michelsons make.

Wednesday 23 May 2007

Katherine Hepburn’s Tailor made Blue Denim Jeans

Katherine Hepburn famously epitomised the head strong career woman starring along side Spencer Tracey in “Adams Rib” one of the best romantic comedies ever made. She portrayed similar roles in other movies teaming up with Cary Grant on numerous occasions. She was famous for her love affairs with men like Howard Hughes and later Spencer Tracy, which lasted until his death.

But there is one thing she’s not famous for, which slightly overshadows her roles and romps on and off the screen. In 1971 Katherine took the extraordinary step of ordering tailor made blue denim jeans from her late lover's Savile Row tailor. Hepburn's commission foreshadowed bespoke denim collections launched in 2006 by Timothy Everest and Evisu. Now, other famous celebrities like Jude Law are taking the step and ordering bespoke denim jeans at £180 a pop. Thirty years after the fact, denim has been elevated to a new level of acceptance. It’s not hard to imagine the possibility of denim suits appearing on the scene, I’d have one.

Sunday 13 May 2007

Bolo: the Tie that won the west

Have you ever seen Texans or Arizonians wearing what looks like a thin leather thong around their necks leading from a buckle at the shirt collar? If so you’ve probably thought it dates back to the Wild West. That’s what I thought until a little research revealed quite a surprise. It’s called a Bolo or Bola and proclaimed the official neckwear for Arizona. This must be one of the most original American styles, the Converse All Star being another; ironically its advent was the outcome of an accident. Had it not been for the loss of a hat in the wind and a quick thinking Arizonian, the style would never have come to fruition? It’s a bit like the story about the advent of the first school tie, another accidental style, which also involved hats and hat bands.

In the late 1940s, a silversmith named Victor Cedarstaff went riding with friends in the Bradshaw Mountains outside Wickenburg, Arizona. When the wind blew his hat off, Cedarstaff removed the hatband, which had a silver buckle he did not want to lose, and put it around his neck.

When his friends complemented him on the new apparel, Cedarstaff returned home, and wove a leather string. He added silver balls to the ends and ran it through a turquoise buckle.

Cedarstaff later patented the new neckwear, which was called the bolo because it resembled the lengths of rope used by Argentine gauchos to catch game or cattle.

Now mass-produced, and bolos are usually made of leather cord, with a silver or turquoise buckle. They are common throughout the west and are often worn for business. In 1971 Arizona legislature named the bolo the official state neckwear.

These fascinating innovations are what make the evolution of style and the progress of fashion through the ages so unique. No experience necessary; a man creates neckwear after his hat blows off in the wind.


Sunday 6 May 2007

Savile Row Anecdotes

Savile Row has survived as the number one tailoring precinct in the world precisely because it has changed with the times. In fact, no other precinct is instantly recognisable by name anywhere else. Many styles that we take for granted today are embryonic of Savile Row.

Here are a few examples of how Savile Row has remained at the forefront of sartorial innovation and how its new generations’, one after the other have set new standards through instituting change and at times causing a little controversy along the way.

1860
Bertie, the rakish Prince of Wales, ordered a short smoking jacket to wear at informal dinner parties at Sandringham from his friend, the tailor, Henry Poole. It was the first dinner jacket on record and was cut in midnight blue cloth. In 1886, a Mr James Potter of Tuxedo Park, New York, was a houseguest at Sandringham. He consequently ordered a similar dinner jacket to Bertie's from Henry Poole & Co. It was this dinner jacket that Mr Potter wore at the Tuxedo Park Club inspiring numerous copies that fellow members wore as informal uniform for stag dinners. Thus the Tuxedo was born at Henry Poole & Co. It took only eight years for an accidental style to cross the Atlantic Ocean and soon became an American institution. Its humble, royal beginnings were soon forgotten when labelled the Tuxedo. Perhaps a more suitable name would be ‘the Bertie’, or ‘Prince of Wales’, or even ‘The Henry Poole’. not so unimaginable when you consider the ‘Harris Tweed’.

1991
Former Tommy Nutter apprentice Timothy Everest - who answered Nutter's newspaper advertisement for a 'Boy Wanted' - opened his first bespoke tailoring shop in an East End Georgian townhouse declaring 'opening a shop on Savile Row would be like moving in with my parents'. 2006 Timothy Everest eats his words as he moves in with his parents, not quite on Savile Row, but just around the corner in Burton Place, a long way from East End London. Perhaps living with the folks is not so bad after all.

1992
Richard James, the first of the 'New Generation' tailors, opened a shop on Savile Row. James introduced Saturday opening (a revolution on Savile Row) and a fashionable edge not seen since The House of Nutter's glory days. Tommy Nutter died that same year. As a fitting epitaph, one of Nutter's final commissions is the outlandish purple suit Jack Nicholson wore playing The Joker in Tim Burton's Batman. These days Richard James is more conservative in his approach, none the less he is still considered very much an innovator and part of the new bespoke movement on Savile Row.

‘Savile Row an English institution worth preserving and prolonging’

Tuesday 1 May 2007

SAVILE ROW PAST AND PRESENT EPISODE TWO

In 1971 Maverick screen actress Katherine Hepburn, whose long-term lover Spencer Tracey was a customer of Huntsman, takes the extraordinary step of ordering bespoke denim jeans from her late lover's Savile Row tailor. Hepburn's commission foreshadows bespoke denim collections launched in 2006 by Timothy Everest and Evisu.

Timothy Everest has launched a new service, where he is applying the same standards and techniques to his jeans as he does to his suits. The whole process takes four to six weeks, with three fittings by his tailors to refine every detail.

Evisu was one of the first Japanese denim labels to become famous outside of Japan in the early Nineties. The brand’s founder, Hidehiko Yamane, bought vintage Levi’s looms to produce his artisan denim using traditional methods. You can even buy bespoke jeans.

Katherine Hepburn created a style that elevated denim to a new level of acceptance. Thirty eight years later the style continues its climb up the ladder.

Thursday 26 April 2007

The Old School Tie, a style creation


It’s well documented that in 1880, the rowing club at Oxford University's Exeter College, invented the first school tie. After an emotional win over their rivals, they celebrated by removing their ribbon hat bands from their boater hats and tying them, four-in-hand around their necks. When they ordered a set of ties, with the colours from their hatbands, they had accidentally created the modern school tie. School, club, and athletic ties appeared in abundance. Some schools had different ties for various grades, levels of achievement, and for graduates. Thanks to historians and their method of accurate documentation all the original college colours are still available from archived samples and replicate ties can be made to order.

The four in hand knot used to tie their hat ribbons, which later became one of the most popular ways to tie a tie has its own unique origin. Coachman who lead a team of two horses en route would take the four reins, two for each horse, and tie them in particular fashion across their hand , thus four reins in hand, or, four in hand. Later the knot and the phrase the coachman used were adapted to neckwear. Two unrelated occurrences made contribution to a style that survives in tact to this day. And interestingly both working class and upper class made equal contribution, the coachman’s phrase and the university student boating hat band.

Let’s not leave Cambridge University out of the race; they also played a part in establishing an everlasting style, albeit forty five years after the first Oxford school tie. A Cricket Club, founded by a group of Cambridge University students in 1845 is believed to have created the first sporting colours. They designed a flag of black, bright, orange-red, and gold, symbolizing "out of darkness, through fire, into light." Blazers, caps, and ties were eventually created in these colours.

Didn’t some one once say “style is constant, fashion comes and goes”?

Tuesday 24 April 2007

SAVILE ROW PAST AND PRESENT EPISODE ONE

It wasn’t so long ago when Savile Row cabled information back and forth; one example can be evidenced way back in 1921, when, Crown Prince Hirohito of Japan commissioned Henry Poole & Co to create Westernized suits for his state tour of Britain. One of Poole's representatives sailed to Gibraltar with pattern templates where he met The Crown Prince aboard his destroyer. The final measurements were cabled to London so the order would be accomplished three weeks later when the Prince reaches the UK. Cabling as with email and online shopping has helped flatten and shrink the world.

So no matter where you are in the world you can go to Savile Row by going online and purchasing some fine English made products. Shirts, suits, silk ties, hats and gloves are available for your pleasure and convenience. And just like in 1921 when Savile Row went to Crown Prince Hirohito in Gibraltar, online shopping comes to you no matter where you are. Have things changed all that much? Or just got, “more, quicker, faster”?

This is just one small chapter in a long history of fine tailoring found only on Savile Row.

Wednesday 18 April 2007

LONDON SQUARE MILE AND ITS MOVEABLE STYLE

London’s square mile is the most affluent square mile in the world. Out of a total city

Workforce of 336,000 there are 80,000 millionaires. Every year, city bonuses amount to around £20billion. The city of London is one of the most competitive, successful and vibrant places on earth. ‘London swings like a pendulum do, Bobbies on bicycles two by two’ It’s the third most popular destination for young travellers, the first being San Francisco USA and the third Sydney Australia. Style has billowed out of this city like smoke did from its factories during the industrial revolution, now it’s the style revolution.

All roads lead to London, forcing cultures foreign and native to mingle. From this melting pot styles emerge representing all classes. The cockney cabbie occupy the same square mile as the millionaire, the cockney shares little in it’s takings but much in its fame and glory. His stereotype has been characterised in many famous West End and Broadway plays, and Hollywood screen adaptations, on Television and on the streets. The accent, slang, clothing mannerisms and song create a style embryonic of London.

Any old iron, any old iron, any, any, any old iron
you look sweet
talk about a treat,
you look dapper from you head to your feet
well you’re dressed in style,
with a brand new smile,
your father’s old green tie on
well wouldn’t give you tupence for old watch chain, old iron, old iron

My old man’s a dustman; he wears a dustman’s hat
He wears cor- blimey trousers and he lives in a council flat
He looks a proper nana in his great big hobnail boots,
He's got such a job to pull them up, that he calls em daisy roots.

These songs are cockney anthems and captured the essence of the working class hero. Two of them popularised by Davy Jones, once a member of the Monkees, renowned teeny bopper band of the 60’s (manufactured) to challenge the Beatles. Davy Jones starred in the musical rendition of Oliver Twist, a Broadway Smash hit of the same Era; he played the Artful Dodger in youthful glamour and appeared on the same Ed Sullivan show as did the Beatles in 1964.

The cockney and Scouser (the latter a person from Liverpool) became instantly recognisable by style of clothes, hair, accent and song. In front of a record television audience they performed their style of music which was in such stark contrast to the Vaudevillian style of entertainment being aired at that time. Even the ‘die-hards’ like Frank Sinatra and Bing Crosby, originally critical of this radical move in music style eventually recorded Beatle songs.

The Beatles made ideal ambassadors; they were young, fresh faced and very talented; unknowingly playing a major role in style migration through their music, hair style and clothing. Fifty years on, there is still faint evidence of those styles and they keep emerging, the tight fit suiting, skinny silk ties and, hair styles, are back in vogue. The Beatles lead the way other bands followed.

It was an explosive decade for London styles in all things material and artistic. The convergence of different cultures from other cities like Liverpool, Birmingham and Newcastle helped create new styles without intent. Other cultures attached their variations, but never true to original form, this was London’s own shouting to the world.

The London square mile continues to grow in wealth and remains the fashion capitol. Its influence on style both radical and conservative continues.