A Tie For All Seasons

And as autumn approaches fashion completes another seasonal cycle. And we wait in great anticipation for new styles freshly watered down from the catwalks. New designers emerge while others blend in with the back ground. And so another turbulent season approaches. Buyers like me have to be in close communion with the turbulence of an industry subject to constant change. For the online shop I buy for, developing a theme is as important as selecting styles by designers. The chosen theme is “made in England” it goes against the grain as more and more brands head East to reduce production costs, at risk of devaluing their brand.

If you’re looking for value, there is always something new and exciting, but not easy to find. “Made in England” individuality and originality need not cost a fortune, so if your budget is a little tight, don’t be concerned, because there are brand names that cater to your needs, at the right price.

One prime example is Timothy Everest a long time emerging Savile Row tailor, remember this name, it will be making fashion headlines on a regular basis over the next five years. His ties are accompanied by the conservatism expected of Savile Row, but without loosing a hint of originality, affordable luxury best describes Timothy’s ties, made in England with the Savile Row stamp of approval, all this for £45.00.

Moving slightly away from the conservative tone of Savile Row, and across the Thames River to Battersea, we take a look at Ian Flaherty, a man of substantial artistic talent. Already renowned world wide for his vibrant cufflink designs, he uses pure English Pewter, Swarovski Crystals and brilliant enamels. His silk ties strike a similar chord, they reflect through colour arrangement and symmetry, brilliance, unique to Ian Flaherty. Slightly more expensive than Timothy Everest at £59.00, all his designs are produced in limited quantities and handmade in London. They’re sure to give many years good knottage.

And to a more unlikely candidate: Vivienne Westwood, founder and promoter of the Punk Style. She has ventured down every road from designing evening gowns to crockery for Wedgwood. Three times winner of “fashion designer of the year” and awarded DBE in 2006 for her contribution to the fashion industry. Vivienne’s ties are as original as you can get without being garish novelties. In August her spring summer collection will be on display. The big surprise is her cufflinks they’re as refreshing as a cool breeze on a hot summer’s day. It’s easy to see why Vivienne is held in such high regard. And her ties are only £55.00, not bad, considering her credentials.

As autumn approaches I look forward to spring summer, not to welcome the warm weather but to welcome the arrival of the new collections of some of my favourite designers. “English made true to my theme”.

The Evolution of the Harris Tweed Jacket

The Harris Tweed Jacket is recognised worldwide as an icon of British style. It’s a home grown classic with a proud heritage and a distinct provenance. Since its founding in England in the nineteenth century, Harris Tweed has been synonymous with quality - as defined by the endurance, classicism and functionality that characterised its history

Continuing, Harris Tweed adorns the shoulders of English gentry countrywide. Sitting perfectly with English Madder Ties, Prince of Wales checks and flannel trousers, It complements a recognisable style that remains true to form and function with a distinctive British sensibility. Like most quintessential home grown classics Harris Tweed stand the test of time, even today designers include it in their seasonal collections. It is emblematic of such a proud heritage.

Harris Tweed was born out of function rather than out of style, but given support by the Aristocracy soon changed the way it was viewed tweed became fashionable and demand for Harris Tweed grew.

From its humble bespoke beginnings to the catwalks of the world.

In 1846, Lady Dunmore, widow of the late Earl of Dunmore, had the Murray tartan copied by Harris weavers in tweed. This proved so successful that Lady Dunmore devoted much time and thought to marketing the tweed to her friends and then to improving the process of production. This was the beginning of the Harris Tweed industry.

As a result of the marketing efforts of Lady Dunmore, increased sales of the tweed were achieved and trade was established with cloth merchants in large towns in the UK.

At about the turn of the century the primitive small loom was replaced by the improved "fly-shuttle" loom. This was made of wood and heavier than the earlier loom tending to make weaving an occupation for men rather than women. Although originally imported from the Galashiels a local joiner started making the new type of loom in 1903.

At a meeting in Stornoway in 1906 efforts were considered for placing the industry on a more satisfactory footing. This was a most harmonious meeting and as the Trade Marks Act had been passed in 1905 making provision for a registration of Standardisation Marks, it seemed to be novel opportunity to end the increasing practice of offering mill-spun tweed as genuine Harris Tweed.

Harris Tweed means tweed which has been hand woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the islands of Harris, Lewis, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra and their several purtenances (The Outer Hebrides) and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.

The late 90s are a difficult time for the British textile industry and Harris Tweed is no exception. However there is confidence that the hard decisions taken to reform the industry will eventually bear fruit and secure the future of this unique product.

In 2004 Nike bought ten thousand metres of Harris Tweed and produced a range of Harris Tweed trainers for women. Nothing like this had been done and it gave the island producers the boost they needed.

May Harris Tweed survive, without it what else is there?

Handmade Designer Cufflinks

As a buyer for an online shop selling men’s luxury fashion accessories, including cufflinks, I have to adhere to customer demands and source products accordingly. If you don’t to your customers they won’t buy. And so begins an arduous task.

The men’s fashion accessories market in England is undersupplied and the demand for English made products is strong and getting stronger, so the balance is in my favour, however meeting this demand is not easy. To find cufflinks that conform to core principles of good design .i.e. “form and function” amongst all the imitations. The task gets harder and even more so when searching for cufflinks that are handmade in England with a maximum retail price of £65.00. However through persistence, my searching tactics were well rewarded. The first designer I discovered that conformed to my selection criteria was Ian Flaherty who works out of his London studio. His cufflinks stems are made from pure English Pewter, double coated with rhodium and inset with Swarovski Crystals or hand enamelled. Ian’s cufflinks are smartly designed and true to good form and function and priced accordingly.

A pair of Ian’s Swarovski Cube cufflinks were hand picked by Victoria Gray editor of The Sunday Express Magazine and recently featured under the title “Twelve of the best gifts for father’s day” They were an instant hit.

There are few ways men can express themselves without their character being called into question. Wearing cufflinks and neckties are two ways to do this. If you’re going to express yourself then do it with style. So if you’re looking for something out of the ordinary without looking like a garish novelty then Ian Flaherty’s cufflinks are worth more than a glance. And when you consider the materials used in their construction and the fact that they are handmade in England the price is no longer an issue.

And if price is an issue then there is no need for concern. Thanks to Simon Carter another premier British designer who recognised the demand for affordable cufflinks that differ from the rest, but without carrying the price tag. Simons’ cufflinks are not handmade in England; nickel is used instead of pewter or silver. Less expensive materials are used to adorn the cufflinks, like cat’s-eye glass in varying shades. Another favourite material of Simons’ is Mother of Pearl and Paua Shell, which comes from the far away shores of New Zealand. The way the materials are combined and arranged ensures individuality and from a starting price of £29.00 you’re assured value for money. One of his latest designs is very clever, called the Aspirin; you can store your headache pills, which are just a twist of the lid away.

There are other British designers on my list but as yet not fully researched, more on these another time. In the meantime do have a look at these designers’ products and save yourself the leg work.