In Search of the Elusive Designer Tie

It has become increasingly difficult to find a designer tie that truly differs from all the rest. We’re offered more choice, but less variety, don’t you think? As a buyer I set out to make a marginal contribution to increase variety and offer another level of choice generally not found in high street stores or websites. I’ve scoured the English continent to find those elusive silk ties that stand out from the rest. There’s an awful lot of talent out there, equal to that found in the top international fashion houses, the only difference is the independents don’t have the marketing budgets to propel them onto the international stage.

The Falling Leaves Silk Tie

First on the list is Cressida Bell with a real gem that only a woman could design, appropriately named “Falling Leaves Tie” it reflects the brilliant hues of nature, a perfect tie for all seasons. Cressida comes from a long line of artists, writers and poets; her Father was Quentin Bell, writer and painter. Her Grandmother was Vanessa Bell the painter and Virginia Wolf her great aunt. Cressida has designed for some big names like Laura Ashley and Richard James. Her ties are screened printed in Gloucestershire, hand made in Essex and available at a handful of boutiques and websites. This tie is a must for any collection.

The Circle and Wave Silk Tie
Next, another unique design, hand printed onto crepe satin silk and fully lined. This one is by Neil Bottle, he works out of his studio on the Kent coast. His customers include Hillary Clinton and Cherrie Blair. Neil has been commissioned by Guggenheim Gallery New York, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. His ties have been sold in Harrods and Liberties of London. Now he focuses his energies lecturing at universities in England and abroad, passing on a wealth of knowledge in textile design and print technique. Neil still finds time to produce a small range of silk scarves and silk ties, which are produced in limited quantities, making them collectables.

The Splashes Silk Tie
Shane McCoubrey recently moved from London to Margate on the Kent coast for fresh inspiration. Having worked on brand development for Gucci, Vuitton and Samsonite, Shane decided to harness his energies and develop his own brand. Now his designer ties are gaining recognition, he’s been featured in magazines like Drapers, Arena and Conde Nast. Made from English woven silks, his ties are genuinely hand made and equal in design and quality to any international brand. Watch out for Shane McCoubrey.

The products designed and produced by these designers are true to good form and function. They’re smartly designed, ever functional and due to their handmade nature will give many years good knottage. Most importantly they will hold their value and become genuine collectables; each one is a work of art.

Thanks to dedicated designers like Cressida Bell, Shane McCoubrey and Neil Bottle those in search of the elusive designer tie that truly differs from all the rest are appeased.

An Abstract Silk Tie

As a stylist Vivienne Westwood has remained peerless for decades. From co-founder of the punk style to DBE, it’s been a long road out of Tintwistle to the international fashion arena and back again. She managed to tuck some big names under her belt along the way, like Wedgwood. And picked up a few best designer awards as well.

Vivienne doesn’t waste breath giving lip service to originality and individuality, she lives them. Just a glance at her credentials will reveal this to be true and allay any doubt of her ability.

Incorporating historic elements into contemporary styles has been the hallmark of Vivienne’s many successes over the past 30 years. Her label is recognised worldwide as an icon of British style. It’s a home grown classic with a proud heritage and a distinct provenance. Since its founding in England in the early 70’s, Vivienne Westwood has been synonymous with quality - as defined by the endurance, classicism and functionality that characterised its history.

Now Vivienne has an impressive range of silk ties and cufflinks, they’re as cool and refreshing as a sea breeze on a hot summer’s day. Far from being garish novelties, they reflect a fashion designer’s talent at its peak.

The cufflinks take on the Orb in variation. Using rhodium as a base and encrusted with crystals, they glean boldly from subtle stems, skull and cross bones, love and hate, or just simply the Orb, into what is unmistakably Westwood -- a designer brand, impossible to mimic. Radicalism is captured cleverly, using “tongue in cheek” styles balanced with smart design with a classical edge.

The ties, expertly made in Italy, just a brief handle will satisfy your senses and make you feel immediately you’re in touch with stylish quality. You’re compelled to tie the knot, if not just for the experience, but to have it as part of your collection. An abstract stroke of an artists brush sitting on a familiar background tells a story all its own, again Vivienne takes a classical form and adds her unique signature, abstractly or otherwise there is no mistaking.

Vivienne Isabel Swire was born in Glossopdale, Derbyshire, on 8 April 1941. Her mother had been a weaver in the local cotton mills and her father came from a family of shoemakers. Her parents ran a sub post office in Tintwistle before moving to north-west London in the 1950’s.

In 1965 she met Malcolm McLaren together they went on to become one of the most creative partnerships in history and as they say the rest is history.

Vivienne Westwood accepted a DBE in the 2006 New Year's Honours List "for services to fashion", She has won the award for British Designer of the Year three times. In December 2003, she and the Wedgwood pottery company launched a series of tea sets featuring her designs, testimony to her versatility and maturity and the respect she has garnered, a far cry from Punk.

A Short History about an English Madder Silk Tie

The English madder silk tie is recognised worldwide as an icon of British style. It’s a home grown classic with a proud heritage and a distinct provenance. The “madder” part of this lovely phrase refers to a natural dye from a Eurasian herbaceous plant, Rubia tinctoria.

Its continuing success through decades of rise and fall owe much too scientific intervention. The colouring agent in madder root called alizarin was in fact first chemically extracted and then synthesized in 1869 by two English chemists. Although the dyeing process, even today, requires a variety of painstaking steps, synthesized alizarin brought the price within the reach of commercial producers. Testimony to the significant part science plays ensuring the longevity of styles and textiles. Silk dyed in this manner is characterized by a dusty-looking finish and a feel (referred to as a chalk hand by the experts) very much like fine suede, and a matte finish.

Continuing, madder ties adorn the necks of English gentry countrywide. Sitting perfectly with tweed jackets and checked shirts. It complements a recognisable style that remains true to form and function with a distinctive British sensibility. Like most quintessential home grown classics madder ties stand the test of time, even today designers include them in their seasonal collections. Michelsons tie makers since 1937 regularly produce a small range of madder prints. Commonly using small paisley and geometric patterns against a richly coloured back drop is emblematic of such a proud heritage. Paisley madder ties have been a status symbol on college campuses since the 1930s, as natty alternative to the traditional striped tie.

Let’s not forget other methods of print, like screen printing, which is still very much alive in traditional form and widely used by the fashion industry in preference to digital print. Although labour intensive and more costly to produce than woven silks, the resultant quality of screen printing is far superior to any digital print techniques. But watch your backs, digital print technology is rapidly improving and within five to seven years it will be knocking on the door of traditionalists beckoning them to accept change or close their doors forever. You can’t ignore progress, without it very few could afford to buy a madder tie. Digital print will eventually drive down printing costs making products more affordable for the general public.

If you’re a collector then it’s not complete without madder. Frank Sinatra is reputed to have such in his collection of five hundred, which he often gave to adoring fans when touring.

It’s a short story with a long history.

Now chaps don’t rush off in pursuit of that elusive madder silk tie left hanging darkly in your wardrobe. Wait until autumn is upon us and choose one that matches the brilliant hues of nature of which we are very much apart of. Finally if you want something really special then you should look for a Neil Bottle or Cressida Bell printed tie, they’re not easy to come by, but a tie collection is not complete without.

Why choose a Michelsons Silk Tie?

Michelsons was founded in 1937 and is the UK's leading manufacturer of silk ties and menswear accessories. Based in Sittingbourne in the County of Kent, Michelsons employs a workforce fully versed in the traditions and craftsmanship of fine neckwear manufacture, skills which they pride in the quality of their product and the fact that it is made in England. So far, so good, one reason to buy a Michelsons silk tie, at least you know where it comes from, wait there’s more reasons.

If you’re going to expel energy searching, locating and purchasing a silk tie, it makes good sense to ensure that you’re getting something worthy of your efforts. Hastily choosing a cheap tie will mean repeating the whole process again far sooner than necessary, because the tie you got for a ‘bargain’ starts falling apart at the seams.

£29.00 will get a high quality silk tie made in England by Michelsons from imported silks. Properly cared for it will last you many years. A lot of men would balk at spending £29.00. But consider this. If you work in an office in the city, then you’ll most likely indulge in one or two cappuccinos a day at a cost of about £2.00 each = £4.00 a day minimum. So by Friday’s end you’ve spent £20.00 or more without balking and what do you end up with? Spending £29.00 on a tie, something tangible that will last 10 years minimum is a better investment. This doesn’t mean you have to give up coffee to buy a tie. Just don’t waste your time and energy, because you’ll end up paying more for less.

Even better, £35.00 will get you a silk tie made in England from silks woven in England. This is a good choice. You could go whole hog and pay £45.00 to £65.00, the choice and variety broaden considerably at these price points. For example £45.00 will buy you a Timothy Everest (Savile Row Tailor) handmade silk tie made under license by Michelsons. £65.00 will get you a Paul Smith, or Thomas Pink tie also made by Michelsons.

Here is another important factor to consider. If a necktie is the epitome of male self expression and you stoop as low to donning a £10 tie, then what are you expressing? If women pass positive comment on the tie you’re wearing then you’ve made the right choice. you’re making the right kind of expression, which converts to the right kind of impression. Remember women buy three out of four neckties.

Michelsons extensive collection of tie designs tops twelve thousand. Under licensing agreements with big brand names like Paul Smith and Timothy Everest, they manufacture and distribute ties to customers worldwide, it’s what they do best.

Michelsons continuing survival in the face of the mass manufacturing revolution of Asia is testimony to the respect they have garnered through delivering high quality products backed up with excellent service. Customers keep going back precisely because Michelsons don’t cut corners.

So, good enough reasons to buy a Michelsons tie, whether it is, Paul Smith, Timothy Everest or Thomas Pink, it’s a Michelsons make.