A Tie For All Seasons

And as autumn approaches fashion completes another seasonal cycle. And we wait in great anticipation for new styles freshly watered down from the catwalks. New designers emerge while others blend in with the back ground. And so another turbulent season approaches. Buyers like me have to be in close communion with the turbulence of an industry subject to constant change. For the online shop I buy for, developing a theme is as important as selecting styles by designers. The chosen theme is “made in England” it goes against the grain as more and more brands head East to reduce production costs, at risk of devaluing their brand.

If you’re looking for value, there is always something new and exciting, but not easy to find. “Made in England” individuality and originality need not cost a fortune, so if your budget is a little tight, don’t be concerned, because there are brand names that cater to your needs, at the right price.

One prime example is Timothy Everest a long time emerging Savile Row tailor, remember this name, it will be making fashion headlines on a regular basis over the next five years. His ties are accompanied by the conservatism expected of Savile Row, but without loosing a hint of originality, affordable luxury best describes Timothy’s ties, made in England with the Savile Row stamp of approval, all this for £45.00.

Moving slightly away from the conservative tone of Savile Row, and across the Thames River to Battersea, we take a look at Ian Flaherty, a man of substantial artistic talent. Already renowned world wide for his vibrant cufflink designs, he uses pure English Pewter, Swarovski Crystals and brilliant enamels. His silk ties strike a similar chord, they reflect through colour arrangement and symmetry, brilliance, unique to Ian Flaherty. Slightly more expensive than Timothy Everest at £59.00, all his designs are produced in limited quantities and handmade in London. They’re sure to give many years good knottage.

And to a more unlikely candidate: Vivienne Westwood, founder and promoter of the Punk Style. She has ventured down every road from designing evening gowns to crockery for Wedgwood. Three times winner of “fashion designer of the year” and awarded DBE in 2006 for her contribution to the fashion industry. Vivienne’s ties are as original as you can get without being garish novelties. In August her spring summer collection will be on display. The big surprise is her cufflinks they’re as refreshing as a cool breeze on a hot summer’s day. It’s easy to see why Vivienne is held in such high regard. And her ties are only £55.00, not bad, considering her credentials.

As autumn approaches I look forward to spring summer, not to welcome the warm weather but to welcome the arrival of the new collections of some of my favourite designers. “English made true to my theme”.

The Evolution of the Harris Tweed Jacket

The Harris Tweed Jacket is recognised worldwide as an icon of British style. It’s a home grown classic with a proud heritage and a distinct provenance. Since its founding in England in the nineteenth century, Harris Tweed has been synonymous with quality - as defined by the endurance, classicism and functionality that characterised its history

Continuing, Harris Tweed adorns the shoulders of English gentry countrywide. Sitting perfectly with English Madder Ties, Prince of Wales checks and flannel trousers, It complements a recognisable style that remains true to form and function with a distinctive British sensibility. Like most quintessential home grown classics Harris Tweed stand the test of time, even today designers include it in their seasonal collections. It is emblematic of such a proud heritage.

Harris Tweed was born out of function rather than out of style, but given support by the Aristocracy soon changed the way it was viewed tweed became fashionable and demand for Harris Tweed grew.

From its humble bespoke beginnings to the catwalks of the world.

In 1846, Lady Dunmore, widow of the late Earl of Dunmore, had the Murray tartan copied by Harris weavers in tweed. This proved so successful that Lady Dunmore devoted much time and thought to marketing the tweed to her friends and then to improving the process of production. This was the beginning of the Harris Tweed industry.

As a result of the marketing efforts of Lady Dunmore, increased sales of the tweed were achieved and trade was established with cloth merchants in large towns in the UK.

At about the turn of the century the primitive small loom was replaced by the improved "fly-shuttle" loom. This was made of wood and heavier than the earlier loom tending to make weaving an occupation for men rather than women. Although originally imported from the Galashiels a local joiner started making the new type of loom in 1903.

At a meeting in Stornoway in 1906 efforts were considered for placing the industry on a more satisfactory footing. This was a most harmonious meeting and as the Trade Marks Act had been passed in 1905 making provision for a registration of Standardisation Marks, it seemed to be novel opportunity to end the increasing practice of offering mill-spun tweed as genuine Harris Tweed.

Harris Tweed means tweed which has been hand woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the islands of Harris, Lewis, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra and their several purtenances (The Outer Hebrides) and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.

The late 90s are a difficult time for the British textile industry and Harris Tweed is no exception. However there is confidence that the hard decisions taken to reform the industry will eventually bear fruit and secure the future of this unique product.

In 2004 Nike bought ten thousand metres of Harris Tweed and produced a range of Harris Tweed trainers for women. Nothing like this had been done and it gave the island producers the boost they needed.

May Harris Tweed survive, without it what else is there?

Handmade Designer Cufflinks

As a buyer for an online shop selling men’s luxury fashion accessories, including cufflinks, I have to adhere to customer demands and source products accordingly. If you don’t to your customers they won’t buy. And so begins an arduous task.

The men’s fashion accessories market in England is undersupplied and the demand for English made products is strong and getting stronger, so the balance is in my favour, however meeting this demand is not easy. To find cufflinks that conform to core principles of good design .i.e. “form and function” amongst all the imitations. The task gets harder and even more so when searching for cufflinks that are handmade in England with a maximum retail price of £65.00. However through persistence, my searching tactics were well rewarded. The first designer I discovered that conformed to my selection criteria was Ian Flaherty who works out of his London studio. His cufflinks stems are made from pure English Pewter, double coated with rhodium and inset with Swarovski Crystals or hand enamelled. Ian’s cufflinks are smartly designed and true to good form and function and priced accordingly.

A pair of Ian’s Swarovski Cube cufflinks were hand picked by Victoria Gray editor of The Sunday Express Magazine and recently featured under the title “Twelve of the best gifts for father’s day” They were an instant hit.

There are few ways men can express themselves without their character being called into question. Wearing cufflinks and neckties are two ways to do this. If you’re going to express yourself then do it with style. So if you’re looking for something out of the ordinary without looking like a garish novelty then Ian Flaherty’s cufflinks are worth more than a glance. And when you consider the materials used in their construction and the fact that they are handmade in England the price is no longer an issue.

And if price is an issue then there is no need for concern. Thanks to Simon Carter another premier British designer who recognised the demand for affordable cufflinks that differ from the rest, but without carrying the price tag. Simons’ cufflinks are not handmade in England; nickel is used instead of pewter or silver. Less expensive materials are used to adorn the cufflinks, like cat’s-eye glass in varying shades. Another favourite material of Simons’ is Mother of Pearl and Paua Shell, which comes from the far away shores of New Zealand. The way the materials are combined and arranged ensures individuality and from a starting price of £29.00 you’re assured value for money. One of his latest designs is very clever, called the Aspirin; you can store your headache pills, which are just a twist of the lid away.

There are other British designers on my list but as yet not fully researched, more on these another time. In the meantime do have a look at these designers’ products and save yourself the leg work.

In Search of the Elusive Designer Tie

It has become increasingly difficult to find a designer tie that truly differs from all the rest. We’re offered more choice, but less variety, don’t you think? As a buyer I set out to make a marginal contribution to increase variety and offer another level of choice generally not found in high street stores or websites. I’ve scoured the English continent to find those elusive silk ties that stand out from the rest. There’s an awful lot of talent out there, equal to that found in the top international fashion houses, the only difference is the independents don’t have the marketing budgets to propel them onto the international stage.

The Falling Leaves Silk Tie

First on the list is Cressida Bell with a real gem that only a woman could design, appropriately named “Falling Leaves Tie” it reflects the brilliant hues of nature, a perfect tie for all seasons. Cressida comes from a long line of artists, writers and poets; her Father was Quentin Bell, writer and painter. Her Grandmother was Vanessa Bell the painter and Virginia Wolf her great aunt. Cressida has designed for some big names like Laura Ashley and Richard James. Her ties are screened printed in Gloucestershire, hand made in Essex and available at a handful of boutiques and websites. This tie is a must for any collection.

The Circle and Wave Silk Tie
Next, another unique design, hand printed onto crepe satin silk and fully lined. This one is by Neil Bottle, he works out of his studio on the Kent coast. His customers include Hillary Clinton and Cherrie Blair. Neil has been commissioned by Guggenheim Gallery New York, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. His ties have been sold in Harrods and Liberties of London. Now he focuses his energies lecturing at universities in England and abroad, passing on a wealth of knowledge in textile design and print technique. Neil still finds time to produce a small range of silk scarves and silk ties, which are produced in limited quantities, making them collectables.

The Splashes Silk Tie
Shane McCoubrey recently moved from London to Margate on the Kent coast for fresh inspiration. Having worked on brand development for Gucci, Vuitton and Samsonite, Shane decided to harness his energies and develop his own brand. Now his designer ties are gaining recognition, he’s been featured in magazines like Drapers, Arena and Conde Nast. Made from English woven silks, his ties are genuinely hand made and equal in design and quality to any international brand. Watch out for Shane McCoubrey.

The products designed and produced by these designers are true to good form and function. They’re smartly designed, ever functional and due to their handmade nature will give many years good knottage. Most importantly they will hold their value and become genuine collectables; each one is a work of art.

Thanks to dedicated designers like Cressida Bell, Shane McCoubrey and Neil Bottle those in search of the elusive designer tie that truly differs from all the rest are appeased.

An Abstract Silk Tie

As a stylist Vivienne Westwood has remained peerless for decades. From co-founder of the punk style to DBE, it’s been a long road out of Tintwistle to the international fashion arena and back again. She managed to tuck some big names under her belt along the way, like Wedgwood. And picked up a few best designer awards as well.

Vivienne doesn’t waste breath giving lip service to originality and individuality, she lives them. Just a glance at her credentials will reveal this to be true and allay any doubt of her ability.

Incorporating historic elements into contemporary styles has been the hallmark of Vivienne’s many successes over the past 30 years. Her label is recognised worldwide as an icon of British style. It’s a home grown classic with a proud heritage and a distinct provenance. Since its founding in England in the early 70’s, Vivienne Westwood has been synonymous with quality - as defined by the endurance, classicism and functionality that characterised its history.

Now Vivienne has an impressive range of silk ties and cufflinks, they’re as cool and refreshing as a sea breeze on a hot summer’s day. Far from being garish novelties, they reflect a fashion designer’s talent at its peak.

The cufflinks take on the Orb in variation. Using rhodium as a base and encrusted with crystals, they glean boldly from subtle stems, skull and cross bones, love and hate, or just simply the Orb, into what is unmistakably Westwood -- a designer brand, impossible to mimic. Radicalism is captured cleverly, using “tongue in cheek” styles balanced with smart design with a classical edge.

The ties, expertly made in Italy, just a brief handle will satisfy your senses and make you feel immediately you’re in touch with stylish quality. You’re compelled to tie the knot, if not just for the experience, but to have it as part of your collection. An abstract stroke of an artists brush sitting on a familiar background tells a story all its own, again Vivienne takes a classical form and adds her unique signature, abstractly or otherwise there is no mistaking.

Vivienne Isabel Swire was born in Glossopdale, Derbyshire, on 8 April 1941. Her mother had been a weaver in the local cotton mills and her father came from a family of shoemakers. Her parents ran a sub post office in Tintwistle before moving to north-west London in the 1950’s.

In 1965 she met Malcolm McLaren together they went on to become one of the most creative partnerships in history and as they say the rest is history.

Vivienne Westwood accepted a DBE in the 2006 New Year's Honours List "for services to fashion", She has won the award for British Designer of the Year three times. In December 2003, she and the Wedgwood pottery company launched a series of tea sets featuring her designs, testimony to her versatility and maturity and the respect she has garnered, a far cry from Punk.

A Short History about an English Madder Silk Tie

The English madder silk tie is recognised worldwide as an icon of British style. It’s a home grown classic with a proud heritage and a distinct provenance. The “madder” part of this lovely phrase refers to a natural dye from a Eurasian herbaceous plant, Rubia tinctoria.

Its continuing success through decades of rise and fall owe much too scientific intervention. The colouring agent in madder root called alizarin was in fact first chemically extracted and then synthesized in 1869 by two English chemists. Although the dyeing process, even today, requires a variety of painstaking steps, synthesized alizarin brought the price within the reach of commercial producers. Testimony to the significant part science plays ensuring the longevity of styles and textiles. Silk dyed in this manner is characterized by a dusty-looking finish and a feel (referred to as a chalk hand by the experts) very much like fine suede, and a matte finish.

Continuing, madder ties adorn the necks of English gentry countrywide. Sitting perfectly with tweed jackets and checked shirts. It complements a recognisable style that remains true to form and function with a distinctive British sensibility. Like most quintessential home grown classics madder ties stand the test of time, even today designers include them in their seasonal collections. Michelsons tie makers since 1937 regularly produce a small range of madder prints. Commonly using small paisley and geometric patterns against a richly coloured back drop is emblematic of such a proud heritage. Paisley madder ties have been a status symbol on college campuses since the 1930s, as natty alternative to the traditional striped tie.

Let’s not forget other methods of print, like screen printing, which is still very much alive in traditional form and widely used by the fashion industry in preference to digital print. Although labour intensive and more costly to produce than woven silks, the resultant quality of screen printing is far superior to any digital print techniques. But watch your backs, digital print technology is rapidly improving and within five to seven years it will be knocking on the door of traditionalists beckoning them to accept change or close their doors forever. You can’t ignore progress, without it very few could afford to buy a madder tie. Digital print will eventually drive down printing costs making products more affordable for the general public.

If you’re a collector then it’s not complete without madder. Frank Sinatra is reputed to have such in his collection of five hundred, which he often gave to adoring fans when touring.

It’s a short story with a long history.

Now chaps don’t rush off in pursuit of that elusive madder silk tie left hanging darkly in your wardrobe. Wait until autumn is upon us and choose one that matches the brilliant hues of nature of which we are very much apart of. Finally if you want something really special then you should look for a Neil Bottle or Cressida Bell printed tie, they’re not easy to come by, but a tie collection is not complete without.

Why choose a Michelsons Silk Tie?

Michelsons was founded in 1937 and is the UK's leading manufacturer of silk ties and menswear accessories. Based in Sittingbourne in the County of Kent, Michelsons employs a workforce fully versed in the traditions and craftsmanship of fine neckwear manufacture, skills which they pride in the quality of their product and the fact that it is made in England. So far, so good, one reason to buy a Michelsons silk tie, at least you know where it comes from, wait there’s more reasons.

If you’re going to expel energy searching, locating and purchasing a silk tie, it makes good sense to ensure that you’re getting something worthy of your efforts. Hastily choosing a cheap tie will mean repeating the whole process again far sooner than necessary, because the tie you got for a ‘bargain’ starts falling apart at the seams.

£29.00 will get a high quality silk tie made in England by Michelsons from imported silks. Properly cared for it will last you many years. A lot of men would balk at spending £29.00. But consider this. If you work in an office in the city, then you’ll most likely indulge in one or two cappuccinos a day at a cost of about £2.00 each = £4.00 a day minimum. So by Friday’s end you’ve spent £20.00 or more without balking and what do you end up with? Spending £29.00 on a tie, something tangible that will last 10 years minimum is a better investment. This doesn’t mean you have to give up coffee to buy a tie. Just don’t waste your time and energy, because you’ll end up paying more for less.

Even better, £35.00 will get you a silk tie made in England from silks woven in England. This is a good choice. You could go whole hog and pay £45.00 to £65.00, the choice and variety broaden considerably at these price points. For example £45.00 will buy you a Timothy Everest (Savile Row Tailor) handmade silk tie made under license by Michelsons. £65.00 will get you a Paul Smith, or Thomas Pink tie also made by Michelsons.

Here is another important factor to consider. If a necktie is the epitome of male self expression and you stoop as low to donning a £10 tie, then what are you expressing? If women pass positive comment on the tie you’re wearing then you’ve made the right choice. you’re making the right kind of expression, which converts to the right kind of impression. Remember women buy three out of four neckties.

Michelsons extensive collection of tie designs tops twelve thousand. Under licensing agreements with big brand names like Paul Smith and Timothy Everest, they manufacture and distribute ties to customers worldwide, it’s what they do best.

Michelsons continuing survival in the face of the mass manufacturing revolution of Asia is testimony to the respect they have garnered through delivering high quality products backed up with excellent service. Customers keep going back precisely because Michelsons don’t cut corners.

So, good enough reasons to buy a Michelsons tie, whether it is, Paul Smith, Timothy Everest or Thomas Pink, it’s a Michelsons make.