Designer tie

The 1920’s was a significant year for the tie. Two major innovations occurred on two different continents which changed the tie forevever. This was the decade that saw it being completely re-engineered and re-styled. Thanks to pioneering Paris fashion designer Jean Patou who invented the designer tie. He made silk ties from women’s clothing material. Targeted towards women purchasers, his expensive ties were highly successful.

Jesse Langsdorf, an American tailor, discovered that by cutting the tie on the bias of the cloth, the tie would be much more resilient and long- wearing. Cut slightly off bias, the tie would pull off-centre and fall crookedly, but if cut at exactly 45 degrees, the aprons of the tie would drape elegantly, straight down from the knot. He also constructed his ties using three different pieces of silk (the blade, the gusset and the under end) sewn together. He patented his idea and sold it to the world.

Today, designer ties abound. Designers create some themselves, while others are made by manufacturers under licensing agreements. Designer ties are also popular with women, who associate them with high fashion.

Noted designers include, Duchamp, Simon Carter, Louis Feraud, Dunhill, Timothy Everest, Richard James, Ian Flaherty, Robert Charles, Kenzo, Ede and Ravenscroft, Michelsons, Cressida Bell, Shane McCoubrey and Neil Bottle. There are many more but this short list highlight those who have championed the designer tie movement through their own unique styles. Some can be found at Patrick McMurray.

Louis Feraud

As from the day that Louis Fraud opened the door of his boutiques in Cannes 1950 and Paris 1954, he was unanimously recognized as a master of his art. This artist stands out clearly in 1955 when he presents his first Couture collection which is characterised by vibrant colours, typical of his Mediterranean background and inspired by his love of Spanish and Latin American cultures. After a magnificent career, he dies in 1999 at 79 years of age. It is thanks to the strength of his example that he continues, through his creations. Later Feraud would venture into men’s suiting, casual wear and a range of accessories and classic silk ties, all uniquely Feraud in style and colour. Now we can enjoy the vibrancy of his art, which have been transformed into fashion items, like silk ties, sport jackets and suiting.

Simon Carter "king of cufflinks"

In 1985 a quiet revolution began when Simon Carter started selling pewter brooches for men. By the late 80’s Carter was selling designer cufflinks. He introduced fresh and exciting designs and revolutionised the men’s accessories market, which had been stagnant for many years. As he gathered pace other emerging designers joined the band and together helped popularise cufflinks. At last men were getting the choice they demanded, Simon Carter kept in tune with his customers needs and he continued to deliver accordingly. More designers joined the revolution and their advance grew stronger each year. Simon Carter then ventured further into men’s accessories introducing an impressive range of wallets, belts and designer ties, uniquely branded with Carters un-mistakable style.

Now us chaps have the choice we deserve. Thank you Simon Carter, Ian Flaherty, Duchamp, Paul Smith, Kit Heat, Jo Downs, Kenzo, Feraud and Murray Ward.

Huguenot Silk Weavers

The Huguenots were French and Flemish Protestants who fled their own countries because of religious persecution. There were two main waves of Huguenot migration – in the latter half of the sixteenth century and towards the end of the seventeenth century. In all, over 200,000 Huguenots fled to the UK and Netherlands.

Huguenot migrants possessed considerable knowledge of the textiles industries –especially silk-making. The Courtauld family established a prospering silk industry at Braintree, Essex, while Huguenot weavers also concentrated in the Spitalfields area of London. Lewis (Or Louis) Paul invented the method of roller spinning that was later developed by Richard Arkwright to such great effect.

Today companies such as Stephen Walters silk weavers for nine generations and Vanners carry on the silk weaving in Suffolk England. Many British designers are using these companies to produce world class fabrics for their silk ties. Minimum quantities are relatively small so it supports the growing bespoke market. Most importantly it’s sustainable, environmentally friendly and ethically produced.